Pizza and Pompeii

Despite having been told by numerous Spaniards that Naples, Italy is the "most dangerous city in Europe", I spent a weekend there by myself and... nothing happened! They told me that there would be garbage on the ground and people with guns, and I laughed and joked that that sounds like my hometown in 'Murica. I did briefly consider forgetting about my $60 flight (I wouldn't get a refund), but in the end I decided to go, because I didn't see much reason in their arguments against me going. In fact, being alone might have been to my advantage, since I was able to move around discreetly and pay better attention to my belongings and my surroundings.

First impressions of Naples

My Airbnb was near via Toledo, a long busy street famous for its shopping. I don't know any Italian, but some words stood out to me since it's so closely related to Spanish. In fact, I even had a conversation with someone using slow Spanish/Italian and hand gestures.

The only activity I did that evening was the archaeology museum, which in hindsight I should've gone to after Pompeii (or maybe even skipped it all together), since I didn't really know what I was looking at.

There in Naples I ate the most delicious pizza I've ever had in my life. They gave me a fork and knife with it, which was helpful because it's so floppy. The pizza I ordered was probably enough to share with someone, but since I was by myself, well... I guess I had to eat it myself. I also ordered limoncello, thinking it would be some form of lemonade, but it turns out it's actually liqueur which would explain why the waiter gave me a weird look.

On my way home, I passed a few "Liuterias" which literally means "the place that sells lutes". This word construction happens in Spanish, with the "heladerías" which sell ice cream (helado) and the "zapaterías" which sell shoes (zapato), and I suppose it happens in Italian, too, even with lutes.

-Update: a quick google search just told me that these stores actually take care of all string instruments.-

And that night, since I didn't want to go to bed at 8pm, I checked Couchsurfing, an app for hosting or staying with strangers while traveling (which I've always been too shy to try alone) that also posts events for travelers. And sure enough, there was a group meeting at a bar that night. I went to try some Italian wine and talk to travelers from around the world. I met some British expats who left everything to teach English abroad, a man from Catalunya, not Spain, a Turkish student who just got her Master's and is treating herself to an adventure before finding a job...

I spent the next day in Pompeii, what actually attracted me to Naples in the first place. I had wanted to see it since I read about it in some World History book as a little girl, and now I finally had the opportunity!

The train to Pompeii was packed and uncomfortable. I think there might've been a more expensive but more comfortable option, but obviously I didn't take that. As I was boarding the train, a man approached me and asked "Pompeii?", and being the kind stranger I am I began to respond, "Yes, that one!" and pointed to the train. But he talked over me and said, "It will be that one over there," pointing at the same train. Then he stretched out his hand, wanting a tip for helping the tourist. He didn't help me; I thought I was helping him. I need to learn to look less approachable. Anyways, Pompeii was incredible, and if I could do it again, I'd do it with a guide so I could learn more. I usually skip guides because I'm stubborn and cheap, but I've been realizing more and more that it's worth it sometimes. I'm glad I at least got the audioguide, because there aren't any signs throughout Pompeii.

I wandered around until I got tired and hungry, and then I returned to Naples. I wandered around a bit there, too. There was a castle by the water, a big shopping center in a beautiful building, some sort of procession...

That night, I went for a glass of wine with someone I had met at the CS event the night before. I met a British woman who decided to move to Naples before "Brexit" happens because she fell in love with the city. We ended up playing Jenga with some old Italian men. Overall, it was a fun, spontaneous night.

I left for Granada late next morning, and my journey was uneventful except for the fact that they took my mozzarella cheese from me at security. I don't think I'll ever stop being bitter about that.

I'm glad I went, and I'm glad I went by myself so I could make the most of my time there. Naples shouldn't be scary at all. Sure, it's a little dirty, but it's lively, gritty and raw and that's why I liked it.